Shapes
Round brilliant

The Round Brilliant cut typically has 58 facets, including the table (top flat surface), crown (upper portion), pavilion (bottom portion), and culet (small facet at the tip of the pavilion). The facets are arranged in a way that creates a symmetrical pattern, enabling light to reflect off the diamond’s interior and return to the eye of the viewer. The angle and proportions of these facets play a significant role in the diamond’s overall brilliance, making cut quality one of the most important factors in determining a diamond’s value.
Brief History:
The Round Brilliant cut was developed in the early 20th century and became the standard for diamonds used in engagement rings and other fine jewelry. The origins of the Round Brilliant cut can be traced back to Marcel Tolkowsky, a Belgian diamond cutter, who in 1919 published a thesis that outlined the ideal proportions for a diamond to achieve maximum brilliance. His research provided the foundation for modern diamond cutting and led to the widespread adoption of the Round Brilliant cut.
Before Tolkowsky’s work, diamonds were typically cut in a variety of shapes, such as the Old European Cut or Old Mine Cut, which had fewer facets and less brilliance. Tolkowsky’s cut, with its precise facet arrangement and optimized proportions, revolutionized diamond cutting by focusing on maximizing light reflection.
The Round Brilliant cut remains the most popular shape for diamonds due to its versatility, timeless elegance, and its ability to show off the diamond’s best qualities, regardless of size. Today, it is the cut of choice for a vast majority of engagement rings and high-end jewelry pieces.
In summary, the Round Brilliant cut’s innovative design, developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in the early 20th century, has made it the quintessential diamond cut, celebrated for its unparalleled brilliance and timeless appeal.
Oval

An oval cut stone is a type of gemstone cut that combines the round brilliant shape’s brilliance with an elongated form. Its outline is elliptical, similar to an elongated circle, and it typically has 58 facets (like a round brilliant), allowing it to display brilliant sparkle and light reflection. The oval shape can vary slightly in its elongation depending on the gemstone’s proportions, but it usually offers a balanced, graceful appearance that can enhance the size and perceived value of a stone, especially in rings, earrings, or necklaces.
Description:
Oval-cut gemstones are considered classic and versatile, as the elongated shape works well with many jewelry designs, offering both elegance and sophistication. This shape can make fingers appear longer and slimmer when used in rings and is often chosen for its unique combination of brilliance and length.
History of Oval Cut Stones:
The oval cut was developed in the mid-20th century, specifically in 1957, by Israeli diamond cutter Moishe Zvi. The goal was to create a shape that combined the sparkle of the round brilliant cut with a more modern, elongated design. Zvi’s innovation resulted in a design that could maximize the size of a diamond while maintaining its brilliance and adding a distinctive aesthetic appeal.
While initially popular in diamonds, oval cuts gained traction with other gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. The oval cut became widely recognized in the jewelry industry for its ability to offer an elegant and flattering shape that works well with various jewelry settings. It was especially popular in the 1980s and continues to be favored today, particularly for engagement rings, as its shape offers the appearance of a larger stone at a relatively lower cost than round cuts.
In modern times, the oval cut remains a staple in both classic and contemporary jewelry, admired for its timeless appeal and flattering shape.
Cushion

A cushion cut is a type of diamond or gemstone cut characterized by its square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, resembling a pillow (hence the name “cushion”). It is a combination of a square or rectangular shape and the soft, rounded edges that give it a more vintage feel compared to sharper, more modern cuts like the princess cut
Description:
The cushion cut can be cut with different facets, and traditionally, it was cut with fewer facets (referred to as the “old mine” cut), while modern cushion cuts often feature more facets, allowing them to achieve greater brilliance and sparkle. The depth and proportions of a cushion cut can vary, contributing to its unique visual appeal, often exhibiting a “crushed ice” effect, where the facets create a sparkling, textured look.
Cushion cut stones are popular in various types of jewelry, particularly engagement rings, due to their romantic, vintage aesthetic, and their ability to combine classic elegance with contemporary flair.
Brief History of Cushion Cut Stones:
The cushion cut dates back to the 19th century, evolving from the “old mine” cut, which was commonly used in the 1800s. The old mine cut was a precursor to modern brilliant cuts, with its deep pavilion (bottom) and a relatively flat crown (top). It was primarily designed to maximize the reflection of candlelight, as artificial lighting at the time was limited.
In the early 20th century, as diamond cutting technology advanced, cushion cuts began to evolve into the more faceted and modern versions we see today. With the advent of modern cutting techniques like the round brilliant cut, the cushion shape adapted, offering more brilliance while maintaining its vintage charm.
Over time, the cushion cut fell out of favor briefly but made a significant comeback in the 21st century, especially with the popularity of vintage-inspired and antique-style jewelry. Celebrities and designers also helped elevate the cushion cut’s popularity again in engagement rings. Today, the cushion cut remains a timeless and sought-after choice for those looking for something unique and romantic.
Princess

The Princess cut is one of the most popular diamond shapes for engagement rings and fine jewelry, known for its modern and elegant appearance. It is a square or rectangular cut with pointed corners, combining the brilliance of round cuts with a sharp, contemporary style. The princess cut is often referred to as a “square modified brilliant” because it features a unique faceting pattern that maximizes light return, giving it exceptional sparkle.
History of the Princess Cut
- Origins: The princess cut was developed in the 1960s by a diamond cutter named Arpad Nagy, although other experts also contributed to its evolution. Nagy is often credited with perfecting the modern princess shape, though it is based on earlier designs that tried to combine square shapes with brilliant cutting techniques.
- Rise to Popularity: The princess cut grew in popularity during the 1980s and 1990s, as it offered a visually stunning alternative to round diamonds, with the added appeal of a square shape. Its ability to hide inclusions (compared to round cuts) and maximize carat weight, especially for larger diamonds, made it a favorite among jewelry buyers.
- Modern Day: Today, the princess cut is one of the most sought-after shapes for engagement rings and fine jewelry. It is available in various settings, such as solitaire, three-stone rings, and halo designs. Advances in cutting technology have also made it possible to create even more precise and brilliant princess cuts, enhancing the stone’s overall appearance.
Overall, the princess cut has established itself as a versatile and stylish choice, beloved for its combination of classic brilliance with a fresh, modern aesthetic.
Pear

The pear cut (also known as teardrop cut) is a popular gemstone shape that combines elements of both round and marquise cuts. It features a rounded base with a pointed tip, creating a teardrop-like shape. The shape is often used for diamonds, colored gemstones, and even pearls, creating a soft, elegant, and elongated silhouette. The pear cut is often used for pendants, earrings, and engagement rings, where the length and shape of the stone can enhance the appearance of the piece.
Characteristics:
- Symmetry: Pear cuts should have a well-balanced, symmetrical shape with a rounded bottom and a sharp, graceful point at the top.
- Faceting: Pear-shaped stones are typically faceted using a brilliant or mixed cut to maximize their sparkle and brilliance.
- Versatility: The pear shape is versatile and can be set in various orientations: with the point facing up, down, or sideways, offering a range of design possibilities.
Brief History:
The pear cut has a history dating back to the 1400s during the Renaissance period, though its modern form became more refined in the 20th century.
- Early Development: The pear-shaped cut is believed to have originated in 16th-century Europe, and was initially created by combining the marquise and round cuts. However, it did not gain immediate popularity. It was a part of the broader development of diamond cutting techniques in the Renaissance, where gem cutters started experimenting with different shapes to bring out the best in each stone.
- Evolution in the 18th and 19th Centuries: The pear shape continued to evolve through the 18th and 19th centuries as cutting techniques improved, and jewelers began to explore ways to showcase gemstones with unique cuts. During this period, diamonds became more accessible, and pear-shaped stones began to be used more frequently.
- Modern Popularity: The pear cut gained significant popularity in the 20th century, particularly with the rise of Art Deco jewelry. Its elongated shape was appreciated for adding elegance and the illusion of size, making it a sought-after choice for rings, especially engagement rings. The cut became well-loved for its ability to elongate the finger and emphasize a gemstone’s brilliance.
- Contemporary Use: Today, the pear cut is still a favorite among gemstone lovers, especially for its ability to be adapted in modern designs. It continues to be used for both classic and contemporary jewelry, often paired with accent stones to enhance its dramatic effect.
Emerald

History of the Emerald Cut
The emerald cut was first developed for emeralds in the 1500s. At that time, emeralds were prized for their vibrant color, but they also tended to have numerous inclusions, or “garden,” inside the stone. The step-cut facets were created to allow light to enter and reflect off the stone in a way that minimized the appearance of these flaws while maximizing the color of the emerald. This design preserved the clarity and hue of the gemstone while still allowing it to catch light effectively.
While initially designed for emeralds, the emerald cut quickly became popular for other stones as well, particularly diamonds. By the early 20th century, the emerald cut was being utilized for a variety of gemstones. The design’s appeal is timeless, offering a sophisticated, elegant look that emphasizes the stone’s depth and clarity.
In the 1920s, during the Art Deco period, the emerald cut gained widespread popularity, thanks to its clean lines and geometric shape, which aligned with the design principles of the era. It was during this time that emerald cut diamonds began to be used in fine jewelry, especially in engagement rings.
Features of the Emerald Cut
- Shape: Typically rectangular, though it can be square with its corner cut. The symmetry of the shape is key to its appeal.
- Facets: The cut consists of broad, flat facets arranged in a step-like fashion. This is in contrast to the brilliant cut, which uses triangular or kite-shaped facets.
- Focus on Clarity: Emerald cut stones tend to showcase internal characteristics (such as inclusions) clearly due to the large, open facets. Thus, they are chosen for their clarity and color rather than their ability to sparkle.
- Luster: The emerald cut tends to have a more subdued brilliance compared to other cuts like the round brilliant, but it provides a unique, sophisticated elegance with a “hall of mirrors” effect where the light seems to travel along the facets.
The emerald cut remains a highly regarded choice in fine jewelry, particularly for those who prefer a more understated elegance.
Marquise

The marquise cut is a diamond or gemstone cut characterized by an elongated, oval shape with pointed ends, resembling a boat or football. The cut features a series of facets that create brilliant sparkle, often enhancing the stone’s size and visual impact due to its elongated shape. The marquise cut can make the stone appear larger than a round or square cut of the same carat weight because of its elongated form, making it a popular choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry.
Brief History:
The marquise cut has an interesting historical origin tied to royalty. It was created in the 18th century, often credited to King Louis XV of France, who commissioned a diamond cut designed to resemble the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The shape was meant to reflect her beauty and grace, and it was named after her, with the term “marquise” meaning “marchioness” (a noble title). This association with royalty and elegance quickly made the cut a symbol of luxury.
The marquise cut was widely popular in the Victorian era and made a resurgence in the 1970s. Though its popularity waned for a time, the marquise cut has seen a return in modern times as a sophisticated choice for engagement rings and other jewelry pieces.
The marquise shape, when executed well, can create stunning visual effects, making it a timeless option for those seeking a unique, classic, and elegant stone.
Asscher

The Asscher cut is a square or octagonal-shaped gemstone cut with large, step-like facets, similar to an emerald cut, but with a more distinctive geometric pattern. Its unique shape is known for its deep, dramatic pavilion (the lower part of the gem), which creates a beautiful optical effect called the “hall of mirrors”—a series of light reflections that bounce within the stone, giving it a sophisticated, shimmering look.
Description:
The Asscher cut has cropped corners, giving it an octagonal appearance, and the cut typically maximizes the gemstone’s brilliance and fire, although it is more subtle and refined compared to more modern, brilliant cuts like the round brilliant. The proportions of the Asscher cut are crucial—when executed properly, the stone has a pleasing symmetry and an exceptional balance between its depth and width.
Brief History of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut was invented in 1902 by the Asscher family of Amsterdam, specifically by Joseph Asscher, the founder of the Asscher Diamond Company. It was designed as a refined, more elegant alternative to the popular cushion cut at the time. The Asscher cut was a part of the Art Deco movement, which was characterized by bold, geometric shapes, symmetrical lines, and glamour.
During the early 20th century, the Asscher cut became a favorite of the elite, particularly in the 1920s and 1930s. It was popularized by high-profile individuals, including royalty and celebrities. One of the most famous examples of the Asscher cut in history is the 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond, which was cut into several stones, one of which, the “Cullinan I” or “Great Star of Africa,” was cut into an Asscher shape.
The popularity of the Asscher cut waned somewhat mid-century, as round brilliant cuts and other shapes became more in vogue, but it experienced a resurgence in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Today, it is considered a vintage or classic choice, often associated with Art Deco design and appreciated for its elegance and timeless appeal.
The Asscher cut remains a popular choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry, especially for those seeking something more unique and less conventional than a round brilliant cut. Its geometric beauty continues to make it a standout in modern jewelry designs.
Radiant

The Radiant Cut is a popular and versatile diamond or gemstone shape that combines the elegance of a traditional emerald cut with the brilliance of a round cut. This hybrid design features a square or rectangular shape with trimmed corners, giving it a distinctive and radiant appearance.
Description:
The Radiant Cut has a unique facet structure that maximizes the stone’s brilliance and fire. The cut includes a brilliant-style facet arrangement on both the crown and pavilion, meaning it has a large number of facets that reflect light in various directions. It is often chosen for its balance between the squareness of the emerald cut and the sparkle of round brilliant cuts. Radiant cuts come in both square and rectangular shapes, and they are often used in engagement rings and other fine jewelry due to their modern yet classic look.
Key characteristics of the Radiant Cut include:
- Shape: Can be square or rectangular with cropped corners.
- Faceting: 70 facets, designed to maximize brilliance and light dispersion.
- Appearance: The cut is known for its vivid sparkle and fiery reflections.
- Versatility: The shape works well in various settings, from solitaire rings to multi-stone jewelry designs.
Brief History:
The Radiant Cut was developed in 1977 by master diamond cutter Henry Grossbard. Grossbard, a jeweler with expertise in diamond cutting, aimed to create a shape that combined the brilliance of the round cut with the angular elegance of the emerald cut. He focused on creating a diamond cut that would showcase a stone’s brilliance while still maintaining a distinct, squared-off silhouette. His innovation resulted in the Radiant Cut, which quickly gained popularity due to its ability to retain the brilliance of round cuts while offering a more modern, geometric shape.
Since its introduction, the Radiant Cut has become a popular choice for both diamonds and colored gemstones, offering a unique and dazzling alternative to the traditional round or emerald cuts. The cut’s ability to complement various styles and settings has cemented its place in fine jewelry collections worldwide.
Heart

The heart cut is a popular gemstone shape in jewelry, known for its distinct, romantic, and symbolic appearance. It combines the rounded curves of the round brilliant cut with a sharp, pointed end at the bottom, resembling the traditional shape of a heart. Heart cut stones are often used in engagement rings, pendants, and earrings, especially as a symbol of love and affection.
Characteristics
- Shape: The heart shape typically consists of a rounded top with a cleft or dip at the center and a point at the bottom, making it resemble a heart.
- Brilliance: When well-cut, heart-shaped stones can exhibit great sparkle and brilliance due to the facets that reflect light, similar to other brilliant cuts.
- Sizes: Heart-shaped gemstones come in various sizes, but they tend to be most eye-catching when larger, such as in necklaces or rings.
History of Heart Cut Stones in Jewelry
- Origins and Evolution: The heart-shaped gemstone is believed to have originated in the 16th century during the European Renaissance. However, the heart shape as we know it was not standardized initially. It may have evolved from the pear-shaped cuts, where a diamond was shaped to represent a heart to symbolize romantic affection.
- The 18th and 19th Centuries: The heart shape became increasingly popular in jewelry during the Victorian era (1837–1901), especially with the rise of sentimental jewelry. Lockets, brooches, and rings adorned with heart-shaped gemstones became symbols of love and devotion.
- Modern Popularity: The heart shape surged in popularity in the 20th century, particularly after famous engagements featuring heart-shaped diamonds. Notably, Princess Diana’s engagement ring, which was later worn by Kate Middleton, featured a large blue sapphire in a heart shape. This popularized the heart-shaped cut as a modern yet sentimental choice.
- Gemstone Choices: While diamonds are the most popular gemstone for heart cuts, many other stones, such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and amethysts, are also cut in heart shapes. The choice of gemstone depends on the personal preferences of the wearer and the significance of the stone.
Symbolism
- Love and Romance: The heart shape is universally recognized as a symbol of love, making it a fitting choice for romantic gifts.
- Sentimentality: Heart-shaped stones often convey deep personal significance, which is why they are common in engagement rings, anniversary gifts, or personalized jewelry.
In conclusion, heart cut stones in jewelry have a rich history and continue to be a timeless choice for expressing love and affection, from classic engagement rings to custom pieces.
